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History of Pearls
Many thousands of years ago, long before written history, early man probably
discovered the first pearl while searching the seashore for food.
Throughout history, the pearl, with its warm inner glow and shimmering
iridescence, has been one of the most highly prized and sought after gems.
Countless references to the pearl can be found in religions and mythology
of many cultures from the earliest times.
The ancient Egyptians prized pearls so much they were buried with them.
Reportedly, Cleopatra dissolved a single pearl in a glass of wine and
drank it, simply to win a wager with Marc Anthony that she could consume
the wealth of an entire country in just one meal.
In ancient Rome, pearls were considered the ultimate symbol of wealth
and social standing. The Greeks held the pearl in high esteem for both
its unrivaled beauty and its associating with love and marriage.
During the Dark Ages, while fair maidens of nobility cherished delicate
pearl necklaces, gallant knights often wore pearls onto the battlefield.
They believed that the magic possessed by the lustrous gems would protect
them from harm.
The Renaissance saw the royal courts of Europe awash in pearls. Since
pearls were so highly regarded, a number of European countries passed
laws forbidding the wearing of pearls by others outside of the nobility.
During the European expansion into the New World, the discovery of
pearls in Central American waters added to the wealth of Europe.
Unfortunately, greed and lust for the sea grown gems resulted in the
depletion of virtually all the American pearl oyster populations of the
17th Century.
Until the early 1900's, natural pearls were accessible to only the rich
and famous. In 1916, famed French jeweler Jacques Cartier bought his
landmark store on New York's famous Fifth Avenue by trading two pearl
necklaces for the valuable property.
Today, with the advent of pearl cultivation, pearls are affordable and
available to all. Cultured pearls share the same properties as natural
pearls and are grown by live oysters. The only difference is a little bit
of encouragement by man.
Since ancient times, the pearl has been a symbol of unblemished perfection.
It is the oldest known gem, and for centuries it was considered the most
valuable. A fragment of the oldest known pearl jewelry, found in the
sarcophagus of a Persian princess who died in 520 BC, is displayed in
the Louvre in Paris. To the ancients, pearls were a symbol of the moon
and had magical powers. In classical Rome, only persons above a certain
rank were allowed to wear pearl jewelry. The Latin word for pearl literally
means "unique", attesting to the fact that no two pearls are identical.
Pearls have been considered ideal wedding gifts because they symbolize
purity and innocence. In the Hindu religion, the presentation of an
undrilled pearl and its piercing has formed part of the marriage ceremony.
In the romance languages (Spanish, French, Italian), margarita means pearl.
The word pearl appeared in the English language in the fourteenth century.
In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, pearls were very fashionable in
Europe as personal ornaments. The clothing of both men and women were
embroidered with them.
In the Americas, both the Incas and Aztecs prized pearls for their beauty
and magical powers. Spanish explorers of the New World found the natives
in possession of rich pearl fisheries. For many years, the New World was
best known in European cities like Seville and Cadiz as the land where
pearls came from.
regarding who could and could not wear pearls. Teachers and lawyers, for
example, could not wear fringes or chains with pearls.
Native Americans of the Atlantic Coastal areas and the Mississippi River
Basin were the first to collect and use U.S. freshwater mussel pearls and
shells. Pearl pendants and ear pendants were worn by both sexes and both
pearl and shell were used for decorative purposes on articles of clothing.
Some of the tribes used pearls as tributes, reportedly Powhattan
(Pocahontas' father) had large stores of pearls received as tribute.
Additionally, armlets, pendants, and gaming pieces were made from mussel
shell.
The pearl was the favored gem of the wealthy during the time of the Roman
Empire. This intriguing gift from the sea had been brought back from the
Orient by the Crusaders. Roman women wore pearls to bed so they could be
reminded of their wealth immediately upon awakening.
Pearls were once considered an exclusive privilege for royalty. A law of
1612 drawn up by the Duke of Saxony prohibited the wearing of pearls by
nobility, professors, doctors or their wives.
On the other side of the world, pearls were being worn for adornment by the
American Indians. The freshwater pearls of the Mississippi River were strung
into necklaces, sewn onto headdresses and set into copper ornaments.
Famous Pearls
One of the largest saltwater pearls still in existence is the Hope Pearl,
first acquired by Henry Philip Hope in the 19th century. It is two inches
long, and varies between 31/4 and 41/2 inches in circumference. It is on
display at the British Museum of Natural History.
Pearl Information
An old Arab legend tells us that pearls were formed when dew drops filled
with moonlight fell into the ocean and were swallowed by oysters. The modern
scientific explanation is not nearly as romantic but still quite fascinating.
A natural pearl (often called an Oriental pearl) forms when an irritant
works its way into a particular species of oyster, mussel or clam. As a
defense mechanism, the mollusk secretes a fluid to coat the irritant.
Layer upon layer of this coating is deposited on the irritant until a
lustrous pearl is formed.
A cultured pearl undergoes the same process. The only difference is that
the irritant is a surgically-implanted mother-of-pearl bead or piece of
shell. The core is, therefore, much larger than in a natural pearl. As long
as there are enough layers of nacre to result in a beautiful, gem-quality
pearl, the size of the nucleus is of no importance to beauty or durability.
I mitation pearls are a different story altogether. In most cases, a glass
bead is dipped into a solution made from fish scales. This coating is thin
and may eventually wear off. The island of Mallorca is known for its
imitation pearl industry.
Pearl Waters
Fine natural pearls are quite rare. The Persian Gulf has always been the
source of the finest natural saltwater pearls. Other sources are the waters
around Sri Lanka, Australia, Japan, Mexico, Panama, Venezuela and the
Micronesian Islands. Japan is the major source of cultured saltwater pearls,
with Burma and Australia contributing to world supply.
Freshwater pearls occur naturally, but in recent years a strong cultured
pearl industry has sprung up for this product. Freshwater pearls are
generally very irregular in shape, with a puffed rice appearance being the
most common.
Classic Yet Fashionable
Pearls of all shapes and colors are a highly, versatile accessory for a
modern woman' wardrobe. The classic, round pearl necklace is perfect for
evening wear or suit dressing. Long strands may be doubled with the
assistance of jeweled or gold clasps. They may also be twisted alone or
with beads of other precious ,gems for a striking accent.
The most popular colors for round pearls are whites, creams and pinks.
Silver, black and gold are gaining new interest.
Freshwater pearls occur in many colors and are often treated to produce
more evenly-colored strands. These may be found in lovely peaches,
lavenders, pinks and blues as well as white.
Rings, pendants, brooches and earrings are created with a wide range of
pearl shapes-round, pear, egg, teardrop, half, three-quarter and blister.
Baroque pearls, irregularly shaped pearls which don't fall into any, other
category, often make beautiful subjects for rings and pendants because of
their unique, flowing form.
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