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Onyx : Black Magic
In jewelry design as in fashion, colors look crisper against a background
of black and black and white always looks right. In fine jewelry, the black
backdrop is often supplied by onyx, a chalcedony quartz with a fine texture
and black color. Some onyx also displays white bands or ribbons against a
black background. If the layers are even, this type of onyx can be carved
into cameos.
Onyx was very popular with the ancient Greeks and Romans. The name comes
from the Greek word onux, which means fingernail. The story is that one day
frisky Cupid cut the divine fingernails of Venus with an arrowhead while
she was sleeping. He left the clippings scattered on the sand and the fates
turned them into stone so that no part of the heavenly body would ever
perish. True, black isn't normally the color one associates with
fingernails. (Did Venus wear Vamp?) But in Greek times, almost all colors
of chalcedony from fingernail white to dark brown and black were called
onyx. Later, the Romans narrowed the term to refer to black and dark brown
colors only.
Onyx which is reddish brown and white is known as sardonyx. Sardonyx was
highly valued in Rome, especially for seals, because it was said to never
stick to the wax. Roman General Publius Cornelius Scipio was known for
wearing lots of sardonyx.
Black onyx especially shines when used a backdrop for color play. Its fine
texture also makes it ideal for carving, making it a favored material for
today's lapidary artists. In the pin by designer Susan Helmich above, a
carved piece of onyx with threads of white provides a stunning backdrop for
a flash of color. Onyx was often used as the perfect foil for carved rock
crystal or the drop dead red of rubies in Art deco designs. It is also
popular in marcasite jewelry. So if you would like to add a little black
magic to your jewelry design, consider onyx.
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