GALLERY
A gallery is a strip of metal that is perforated with a
decorative pattern. Open galleries can be adapted by jewelers to use as a
ready-made claw setting for gemstones.
GARNET
Garnets are any of a group of semi-precious silicate
stones that range in color from red to green (garnets occur in all colors but
blue). Some garnets used as gemstones include pyrope (the deep red garnet),
almandine, spessartine, grossular, the iron-aluminum dark red garnet (also known
as the carbuncle stone), Uvarovite (rare), and the lustrous Andradite (which
includes the valuable green demantoid garnet, Topazolite , and Melanite). Red
garnet is the birthstone for January. Garnet has a hardness of 6-8 and a
specific gravity of 3.5 - 4.3.
Types of Garnet:
Grossular - Colorless,
orange, yellow, pink, or brown
Pyrope - Colorless, pink, or red
Pyrope
Almadine - Red-orange to red-purple
Almandine spessartine - Red-orange
Chrome pyrope - Orange-red
Almandine - Orange-red to purple-red
Hessonite - Yellow-orange to red
Spessartine - Yellow-orange
Topazolite - Yellow to orange-yellow
Malaia - Yellow to red-orange to
brown
Andradite - Yellow-green to orange-yellow to black
Demantoid -
Green to yellow green andradite
Tsavorite - Green to yellow-green
Pyrope-Spessartine - Green-yellow to purple
Color-change garnet - Blue
green in sunlight; purple-red in incandescent light
Transvaal "jade" -
Bright green grossular garnet
Uvarovite - Emerald green
Grape - purple
Rhodolite - Purple-red
Xalostocite - Pink grossular garnet
GEMSTONE
A gemstone (also called a
precious stone) is a mineral that is valuable, rare and often beautiful. A few
organic materials, like amber, coral and pearls are also considered gemstones.
GIA face=Verdana
size=2>
GIA stands for the Gemological Institute of America.
GIPSY SETTING
The gipsy setting is a recessed setting in which the
stone is sunk into the metal. There are often engraved designs around the stone
(especially star patterns). This type of setting was developed in the late
1800's and was often used for rings. The gipsy setting is also known as the
"star setting."
GIRANDOLE
A girandole is a kind of earring or brooch in which
three pearls, stones or pendants hang from a large stone. The central drop is
usually larger than the other pendants.
GIRDLE
The girdle is the widest perimeter of a gemstone.
GLYPTOGRAPHY
Glyptography is the
art of engraving gemstones, making intaglio and cameos. Stones are engraved
using grindstones with powdered emory or diamond as an abrasive
GOLD face=Verdana
size=2>
Gold is a precious metal that is very soft when pure (24 Kt.). Gold
is the most malleable (hammerable) and ductile (able to be made into wire)
metal. Gold is alloyed (mixed with other metals, usually silver and copper) to
make it less expensive and harder. The purity of gold jewelry is measured in
karats. Some countries hallmark gold with a three-digit number that indicates
the parts per thousand of gold. In this system, "750" means 750/1000 gold (equal
to 18K); "500" means 500/1000 gold (equal to 12K). Alloyed gold comes in many
colors:
Yellow Gold - 50% silver and 50% copper
White
Gold - Nickel, zinc, copper, tin and manganese
Pink (rose) Gold - 90% copper
and 10% silver
Green Gold - High proportion of silver or cadmium
Blue
Gold - Some iron
Grey Gold - 15-20% iron
Karat - Percent Gold
:
24 Kt. - 100% Gold
18 Kt. - 75% Gold
14 Kt.
- 58.3% Gold
10 Kt. - 41.7% Gold
GOLD DORE face=Verdana
size=2>
Gold dor? (pronounced gold doh-ray) is a bar of semi-purified gold
(e.g. bullion). After being mined, the first stage in the purification process
of the gold ore produces a cast bar (gold dore) that is approximately 90% gold.
The other 10% is mostly metals like silver and copper.
GOLD FILLED
Gold filled (abbreviated G.F. or written
as "doubl? d'or") jewelry is made of a thin outer layer of gold atop a base
metal. For example, jewelry marked 1/20 G.F. 12 Kt. is at least 1/20th gold and
is layered with 12 karat gold. To be classified as gold-filled, a piece must be
at least 1/20 gold by weight.
GOLD PLATED
Gold-plated metal has a very thin layer of gold on the
surface, usually applied by the process of electroplating. Pieces that are gold
plated are often marked G.E.P., gold electroplate, gold plated, or
electro-plaqu? d'or.
GRADUATED
A
graduated necklace of beads or pearls has beads that go from a small size in the
back of the neck and gradually increase in size to a maximum in the front of the
necklace.
GRAIN
A grain
is a unit of weight used for diamonds and natural pearls. Four grains are equal
to one carat.
GRANULATION
Granulation is a method of decorating
metal with tiny metallic spheres. Tiny beads of metal are soldered to the
surface to form a pattern.
GRELOT
Grelots are small beads that have an elongated, pendant
shape.
GUILLOCHE
Guilloche is a
type of enameling in which translucent enamel (fused glass) is applied over a
metal surface that has been engraved. The Czech guilloche pin above is studded
with marcasites.
GYPSY RING
A gypsy ring (also spelled gipsy) is a ring with a
recessed stone or stones. Also known as "star setting."