DAMASCENING
Damascening is the
inlaying of a soft metal (like silver or copper) into a hard metal (like steel).
The name comes from the city of Damascus, where this process was first used.
DEMANTOID GARNET
Demantoid garnets
are valuable green, very lustrous garnets with a cubic crystalline structure.
They are a rare variety of andradite. Demantoid garnets have characteristic
inclusions that look like horsetails. Demantoid garnets have a hardness of 6-7
and a specific gravity of 3.8 - 3.9. Demantoids were very popular in the 1800's,
but are rarely used today.
DEMI-PARURE
A demiparure is a matching set of jewelry, usually
containing a necklace, earrings, and a pin. See parure.
DIADEM
A diadem is a tiara, a circular or
semi-circular piece of jewelry worn on the head.
DIAMANT?
Diamant? is another word for rhinestone.
DIAMOND
Diamonds are precious, lustrous gemstones made of
highly-compressed carbon. Diamonds are one of the hardest materials known.
Diamonds have a hardness of 10, a specific gravity of 3.5, and a refractive
index of 2.417 - 2.419. Colors of diamonds range from colorless, yellow, orange,
brown, to almost black. Rarer colors are red, blue, green, and purple; these
colors (called fancies) are quite valuable. Canary diamonds have a deep yellow
color. A diamond's value is based on the "4 C's": color, cut, clarity, and carat
weight. A diamond's color (saturation) is rated on an alphabetical scale ranging
from D (white) to Y (yellow). "Z" diamonds are fancy, or deep-colored diamond. A
diamond's cut is designed to maximize the stone's natural "fire"; brilliant cuts
are preferred. A diamond's clarity depends on the number and size of its flaws
and inclusions (of other minerals, like quartz). Clarity is rated from FI
(flawless), IF (flawless at 10x magnification), a series of V ratings (very
small flaws at 10x magnification), a series of S ratings (small flaws at 10x
magnification), to I1, I2, and I3 (having inclusions visible to the naked eye).
A diamond's carat weight is simple how much it weighs (a carat is about 0.2
grams or about 0.007 ounces). The largest-known gem-quality diamonds include the
Cullinan (aka the Star of Africa, 530.20 carats), the Excelsior, the Great Mogul
(an ancient Indian diamond which is said to have originally weighed 787.5
carats, but its location is not not known and nothing about it has been
authenticaed), the Darya-i-Nur, the Koh-i-Nur, and the Hope diamond (named for
its purchaser, Henry Thomas Hope).
DIAPERING
Diapering is a crisscross pattern of diamond-shaped
lines on a raised-dot enamel pattern.
DICHROISM
Dichroism is the property of having more than one color,
especially when viewed from different angles. Many minerals (like rubies and
axinite) are naturally dichroic. This effect can be artificially caused by a
thin layer of a metallic oxides that is deposited on the surface of a material.
Dichroic coated glass transmits some wavelengths of light and reflecting others,
giving it an opal-like appearance.
DIE STAMPING
Die stamping (also known as machine-stamping) is a
process in which sheet metal is cut and shaped between two dies, forming a
pattern in relief. Two steel dies are used, the male die has the design in cameo
(protruding); the female die has the design hollowed out. The male die is put on
top of the metal, the female die is put on the underside of the metal. The press
is forcefully brought down onto the dies and metal, forcing the metal into the
shape of the mold. Many medallions and mass-produced jewelry findings are made
this way.
DIFFUSION TREATED
Diffusion treated stones are color-enhanced (not
naturally colored) stones. The diffusion process only colors the outer surface
of the stone, so chipping or repolishing will result in a loss of color.
Diffusion-treated stones are already-cut stones that are heated in the presence
of other compounds (like iron oxide, chromium oxide, titanium dioxide, etc.)
that will infuse the extreme outer surface stone with color. Under a microscope,
you can see the loss of color within each tiny scratch. Diffusion treatment can
also change the stone's refractive index. Also, if the stone is faceted, the
color will appear stonger where the facets meet.
DOG COLLAR
A dog collar (also known as "collier de
chien") is a type of short, multiple-strand choker-style necklace that fits
tightly against the neck. Dog collars are also known as " plaque de cou"
(meaning "neck badge") when they are fastened by a clasp in the front. Dog
collars are 14"-15" in length.
DOUBLET
A doublet (also dublette) is a gem made from two layers
in order to save expenses; the lower part of the composite stone is glass or a
non-precious stone, the top is the more valuable stone. Many different types of
doublets have been manufactured (including opal doublets). One common doublet
contains a layer of real garnet and a layer of glass. A thin, red garnet top is
glued to a colored glass bottom. A green glass bottom with a red garnet top
layer produces an emerald-like stone. A diamond is enlarged by cementing it to a
crystal base.
DOUBLY REFRACTIVE
STONE
In doubly-refractive stones, the
light entering the stone is split into two light rays, and the rays travel in
different paths. These stones have more than one refractive index. Calcite,
peridot, zircon, tourmaline, and titanite are doubly-refractive stones.
Birefringence is another name for double refraction.
DROP CUT
A drop cut (or briolette) is a pear-shaped
cut gemstone with triangular facets on top. This type of stone makes a nice
pendant.
DRUZE
Druze is a layer of crystals that form within a mineral crust, like
the inner cavity of a geode. Amethyst crystals are often found in a druze. The
inner cavity of agate geodes are often lined with a druze of sparkling quartz
crystals.