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CABOCHON A cabochon is a stone
that has a rounded, domed surface with no facets. A cabochon garnet is also
called a carbuncle.
CALCITE Calcite
(Calcium Carbonate, CaCO3) is a very common mineral that comes in a wide variety
of forms, shapes and colors. The trigonal crystals range from translucent to
transparent. Transparent calcite exhibits a double refraction effect (when you
look through the crystal, singel items are doubled). Calcite has a hardness of 3
(most forms), a specific gravity of about 2.7, a refractive index of 1.49 and
1.66, and a white streak.
CALIBRE-CUT
Calibre-cut stones are small stones that are cut into
special shapes that are meant for use in commonly-used designs. These stones
usually have step-cut facets and are generally rectangular shaped.
CALIFORNIA RUBY
A California ruby is actually a pyrope garnet (and not a
ruby at all).
CARAT A carat (ct.) is
a standard measure of weight used for gemstones. One carat weighs 0.2 gram (1/5
of a gram or 0.0007 ounce). A hundredth of a carat is called a point. The carat
unit was introduced in 1907.
CARBONADO A
carbonardo is a rare type of opaque black diamond; they are not used for jewels,
but for items like drilling bits and abrasive wheels. They were once thought to
have been formed as a result of a comet impact 2 billion years ago, but this is
no longer thought to be true. The largest diamond ever found was a carbonardo
that weighed over half a kilogram. Carbonadoes are found in Bahia, Brazil, South
America. Unlike other diamonds, carbonadoes are not found in a crystallized form
- they are found in irregular or rounded fragments. Carbonadoes have a hardness
of 10 and a specific gravity (density) of 3.1-3.3. Diamonds have a very hard
polycrystalline carbon structure.
CARBUNCLE A
carbuncle is a cabochon garnet.
CASTING
Casting is the process in which metal is shaped by
melting it and pouring it into a mold. This process has been used for thousands
of years. Molds are made from many materials, including plaster compounds. Some
different methods of casting include the lost wax process, centrifugal (or
investment) casting, and sand casting.
CATHEDRAL SETTING
A cathedral ring setting is a simple band that arches
when seen from the side (like the arches of a cathedral).
CAT'S EYE
CHRYSOBERYL Cat's eye (chatoyant
chrysoberyl) is a yellow to green-yellow to gray-green stone with a bright,
pupil-like slit that seems to move slightly as the stone is moved. Most Cat's
eye is cut as cabochons to maximize the distinctive pupil-like effect. Most
cat's eye chrysoberyl is found in Brazil. Cat's eye chrysoberyl has a hardness
of 8.5. This stone is sometimes enhanced by irradiation (this process improves
the color and accentuates the stone's asterism).
CFW CFW is an abbreviation for cultured freshwater
pearls.
CHALCEDONY
Chalcedony is a family of minerals (microcrystalline
quartz) that are often milky to gray to bluish in color. Chalcedony includes
agate, carnelian (waxy red), chalcedony (blue), chrysoprase (green), onyx (black
and white), bloodstone, sard (brownish-red), jasper (hornstone), seftonite, and
others. Chalcedony is porous and translucent. Chalcedony has a hardness of 6.5-7
and a specific gravity of 2.6.
CHAMPLEVE (meaning sunken enamel) Champleve (also
called email champleve) is a method of applying enamel to metal in which the
design is first outlined on the metal surface by cutting lines into the surface.
The engraved grooves are then filled with enamel, then fired to a glassy sheen,
and polished. Champleve is similar to cloisonne, but not as delicate.
CHANNEL SET
Channel set jewels rest in a metal channel, held in only
by a slight rim which runs along the edges of the channel. Channel set jewels
are usually round or baguette shaped.
CHAREL Charel
is a mark of relatively rare, medium-quality costume jewelry made by the Charel
Jewelry Company, Inc. of Brooklyn, New York. Many Charel pieces have
pastel-colored plastic stones on plated metal.
CHARM face=Verdana
size=2> Charms are tiny, representational ornaments that are worn on
bracelets and necklaces.
CHASING
Chasing is a type of metal decoration in which the metal
is manipulated using a hammer and a punch, resulting in an effect similar to
engraving or embossing.
CHATON A
chaton is a stone with a reflective metal foil backing.
face=Verdana color=#ff0000 size=2> CHATON
SETTING A chaton setting (also
called coronet or arcade setting) is one in which the stone is held in by many
metal claws around a metal ring.
CHATOYANCY
Chatoyancy is the lustrous, cat's eye effect seen in
some cabochon stones, like cat's eye, tiger's eye (pictured above), and
sometimes in other stones, like aquamarine. In chatoyancy, light is reflected in
thin bands within the stone. Chatoyant stones are cut in cabochon to maximize
the lustrous effect.
CHENIER
Chenier is fine, hollow tubing that is used in the
production of some jewelry findings (like clasps and joints), and lately, in the
actual production of jewelry. The hollow tubes are lightweight and save in the
use of gold. The tubes are hard to bend when they are empty, so a metal rod is
inserted before bending, facilitating the bending.
CHOKER
A choker is a type of necklace that fits tightly around
the neck. Chokers are from 14" to 16" in length.
CHROME DIOPSIDE
Chrome diopside is an emerald-green colored gemstone. It
is a chromium-rich variety of the common mineral diopside (Calcium magnesium
silicate). Chrome diopside has a hardness of 5 to 6 and a specific gravity of
3.3 to 3.6.
CHROMIUM
Chromium is a hard, shiny, gray-white metal. This metal
resists corrosion very well and is used in costume jewelry as a coating over
other metals.
CHRYSOBERYL
Chrysoberyl is a hard stone that ranges in color from
yellow, to brown, to green. Some chrysoberyls include alexandrite and cat's eye.
CHRYSOLITE
Chrysolite is a name used for many stones. During
Victorian and Edwardian time, it referred to green-yellow chrysoberyl. It can
also refer to peridot. Long ago, the name was used to refer to almost any
yellowish gem.
CHRYSOPRASE
Chrysoprase is the most valued variety of the mineral
chalcedony (microcrystalline quartz) that contains nickel, giving it an
apple-green color. Chrysoprase is porous and translucent. It is usually cut as a
cabichon, and has been used since ancient times. Chrysoprase has a hardness of 7
and a specific gravity of 2.6. Chrysoprase is mined in Australia, Russia (the
Ural Mtns.), Brazil, and the western USA. Chrysoprase is sometimes called
"Australian jade," but it is not related to jade. Hard-to-detect imitation
chrysoprase is made by staining agate with chromium salts.
CIRE PERDU Cire perdu (French for "lost wax") is a
process of casting metal in which the original model is sculpted in wax. The wax
is entombed in clay, and the wax is then melted out, producing a hollow mold.
The mold is then filled with molten metal. The clay is broken off and the cast
metal remains.
CITRINE
Citrine (from the French for "lemon") is a rare, yellow
type of quartz, a semi-precious stone that ranges in color from pale yellow to
orange to golden brown. The best quality citrine is found in Brazil. Many of the
stones sold as citrine are actually heat-treated amethysts. Citrine has a
hardness of 7 and a specific gravity of 2.65.
CLARITY
Clarity is the clearness of a gemstone, or the lack of
internal flaws. The clarity scale for diamonds runs from FL (flawless, with
neither internal nor external flaws), to I3 (having many clearly visible
imperfections using only the naked eye). A ten-power loupe is used to examine a
diamond for clarity.
CLASP face=Verdana
size=2> A clasp is a fastener that can open and close, attaching two things
together (for example, the two ends of a necklace, or a pin to a garment). The
clasp on a piece of jewelry can tell you a lot about the piece, including giving
an indication of its age (by determining when that particular type of clasp was
invented and looling at the wear on the clasp), its quality (better quality
pieces generally have better-quality clasps), and its composition and
manufacturer (the clasp is often where the maker's stamps are). For example, the
spring ring clasp was invented early in the 1900's; jewelry made prior to 1900
or so will not have a spring ring clasp. Some other common clasps include the
lobster claw clasp, the box clasp, the barrel clasp, the fold-over clasp, the
hook-and-eye clasp, and the bar and ring toggle clasp.
CLAW face=Verdana
size=2> A claw is a metal prong that holds a stone securely in a setting.
CLAW SETTING
A claw setting is one in which a series of metal prongs
(called claws) holds a stone securely in a setting (the claws grips the stone
just above the girdle of the stone), with no metal directly under the stone (it
is an open setting). This setting lets light in under the stone, so this type of
setting is usually used for transparent, faceted stones. The modern-day claw
setting became popular in the 1800's.
CLEAVAGE
Cleavage is the natural in which way a mineral breaks,
along certain planes based on its internal crystalline structure.
CLOISONNE Cloisonne is a method of
applying enamel to metal in which the design is first outlined on the metal
surface using a metal wire. The space between the wires is filled with enamel
and then fired to a glassy sheen.
CLOSED SETTING
A closed setting is one in which the back of the stone
is not exposed (the metal is not cut away behind the stone).
CLOUD face=Verdana
size=2> A cloud is a type of inclusion in some gemstones that has a milky
appearance (and greatly affects the value of the stone). A cloud is usually
composed of a cluster of tiny inclusions.
CLUSTER SETTING
A cluster setting is one in which small stones or pearls
are set around a larger stone.
COLLET
SETTING A collet setting is a very early method of setting
gemstones. A collet is a thin, round band of metal that goes all around the
stone. One edge of the metal is crimped over the edges of the stone and the
other edge is soldered to the metal of the jewelry, holding the stone in place.
This closed setting sometimes also had metal claws along the outside to hold the
stone even more securely (the claws were not used much after the 1200's and
1300's.
COLLARETTE A collarette
(also known as a bib necklace) is a short necklace with flowing ornaments at the
front.
COMPOSITE SUITE A composite
suite is a piece of jewelry that can be taken apart into two or more pieces
which can also be worn. For example, a necklace may be disassembled into two
bracelets.
face=Verdana color=#000099 size=2>CONFETTI
LUCITE face=Verdana
size=2> Confetti lucite is transparent plastic with glitter or other small
pieces of material within it. Whimsical bangles, earrings, pins, necklaces and
other jewelry have been made from confetti lucite.
COPPER Copper is a soft metal often used in
jewelry. It is used in making bronze, brass, and gold alloys. The enameled
copper leaf pin above is marked Matisse, from the "Renoir of California" jewelry
company.
CORAL face=Verdana
size=2> Coral is an animal that grows in colonies in the ocean. Coral polyps
secrete a strong calcium structure that is used in jewelry making. Coral ranges
in color from pale pink (called angelskin coral) to orange to red to white to
black. The most valued colors are deep red (called noble coral) and pink. In
jewelry making, coral is either carved into beads, cameos, or other forms, or is
left in its natural branch-like form and just polished. It used to be thought
that coral protected the wearer, so it was a traditional gift to children. Coral
has a hardness of about 3.5 and a specific gravity of 2.6 to 2.7. Since it is
composed of calcium carbonate, coral will effervesce if touched with acid.
Imitation coral is made from glass, porcelain, or plastic.
CORONET SETTINGA coronet setting (also called
ch?ton or arcade setting) is one in which the stone is held in by many metal
claws around a metal ring.
CORUNDUM
Corundum is a very hard mineral (hardness 9); only
diamond is harder. Corundum is called ruby or sapphire, depending on the color
(which depends on which metallic oxides are present). In its rare pure form,
corundum is colorless and called white sapphire. Rubies contain chromic oxide,
blue sapphires contain titanium, yellow sapphires contain ferric oxide. Other
impure forms are opaque. Corundum stones can produce beautiful asterisms. The
word corundum comes from the Tamil word for ruby. Corundum has a specific
gravity of 3.96-4.01.
CRIMP BEAD
A crimp bead is a soft, metal bead through which string
(for a bracelet or necklace) is threaded; the crimp bead can be squeezed shut
with a pliers to secure the end loops of the threading material fasteners onto
the clasps.
CROWN The
crown is the upper part of a gemstone.
CROWN GLASS
Crown glass is glass that contains no lead oxide. Some
fake rhinestones are made from crown glass.
CRYSTAL (GLASS)
Crystal is high-quality glass containing at least 10%
lead oxide. Lead added to the melt produces very clear glass resembling rock
crystal. The process of making lead crystal was discovered by the English
glassmaker George Ravenscroft in 1676. Crystal is colored by adding various
metallic oxides to the melt.
CRYSTAL (NATURAL)
A crystal is a solid whose atoms form a very regular
structure. Some crystals include quartz, diamond, and emerald.
CRYSTAL HABIT
Crystal habit is the crystal form that a particular
crystal has. The most common crystal habits:
Prismatic - elongated with parallel sides, like
emerald, tourmaline Tabular - short and flat (table-like), like morganite
Ocatahedral - eight faces, like diamond Dodecahedral - 12 faces, like
garnet Acicular - needle-shaped, like rutilated quartz Platy - occurring
in very thin plates, like hematite
face=Verdana color=#000099 size=2>CUBIC
ZIRCONIUM face=Verdana
size=2> Cubic zirconium (also known as cubic zirconia) is an inexpensive,
lab-produced gemstone that resembles a diamond. Cubic zirconia was developed in
1977.
CUFF
BRACELET A cuff bracelet is a stiff, relatively wide bracelet. The
gold-toned, hinged cuff above is by the jewelry designer Miriam Haskell.
CUFFLINKS
Cufflinks are men's jewelry that close the buttonholes
of the cuff of a long-sleeved shirt. Some cufflinks are basically two
button-like objects connected by a chain; the bottons go through the cufff's
buttonholes. Another type of cufflink has a decorative button attached to a
stick whose end swivels out to form a T-shape that goes through the buttonhole.
Cufflinks were first worn in the 1800's.
CULET face=Verdana
size=2> A culet is the bottom point of a gemstone or a small facet that is
ground at the base of a brilliant-cut gemstone. The culet prevents splintering
of the stone. Modern stones rarely have a faceted culet.
CULLINAN DIAMOND
The Cullinan diamond (also called the Star of Africa) is
the largest diamond yet found, weighing 3,106 carats (roughly 1.3 pounds) in its
rough form. It was mined at the Premier Mine in South Africa in 1905. This
enormous gem was named for the chairman of the company that owned the mine. It
was given to King Edward VII of England for his birthday in 1907. The diamond
was cut (by Joseph J. Asscher of Amsterdam) into many stones, including the
Cullinan I (530 carats, pendelique-brilliant shaped, the largest cut diamond in
the world), the Cullinan II (317 carats, cushion shaped), Cullinan III (94
carats, pendelique shaped), Cullinan IV (63 carats, square-brilliant shaped),
and many other smaller stones.
CULTURED PEARL
Cultured pearls are pearls produced by oysters that have
been surgically injected (nucleated) with bits of mussel shell. After 5-7 years,
the oysters are retrieved and the pearls are harvested. This method of
"manufacturing" pearls was invented in 1893 by Kokichi Mikimoto.
CUSHION CUT
Cushion cut stones are shaped like a cushion - they have
a squarish shape that is rounded on the edges. These stones usually have facets
similar to those of a brilliant cut stone.
CUT BEADS
Cut beads are glass beads that have been faceted. This
process makes the bead reflect and refract more light.
CUT STONES
Common cuts include the brilliant cut, old European cut,
emerald cut, radiant cut, rose cut, step cut, pendelique cut. Mixed cuts in
which the style of the facets above and below the girdle are different. Other,
more unusual cuts, are know as fantasy cuts (like the heart cut).
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